Saturday, October 27, 2001
Tuesday, October 23, 2001
Salisbury - Summer 2001

The first stop was a small village in the Cotswolds called Castle Combe. The population was something like 250 people and most of the houses had been built in the 15th and 16th centuries. I felt like I was on a movie set for Mrs. Miniver. I bought two postcards as back up if my pictures didn't turn out but this time my pictures are just fine so I am not bothering to scan them.
The next stop was Avebury, the largest and I think the oldest stone circle in Britain. It predates Stonehenge. We walked all around it and while I certainly enjoyed it, didn't get the same kind of feeling I got from Stonehenge. I think it was because it was so spread out and also it was freezing cold, damp and windy.


It was certainly different from the Wells Cathedral, but just as good in it's own way. I am really impressed by these massive, ornate 12th century cathedrals. I feel such a sense of history when I stand inside them. I think of all the masses of people who have worshiped in them and then when I walk around and read all the inscriptions on the tombs it really gives me a sense of the past. All those folks who have walked on these same stones before me.
Outside Salisbury Cathedral in the Cathedral Close I tried to imagine all the wonderful characters from Susan Howatch's Starbridge Series bustling around going about their fictional lives. I looked up at the roof and tried to picture Nick, Christian, Venetia and the rest dancing naked on the roof and couldn't quite bring it up. Maybe I was looking from the wrong angle. And inside I tried to picture Neville, Charles and Lewis. It was wonderful to see the place that the novels were based on.

But one thing really has disturbed me, and it's the way some of them have in my opinion, ceased to be places of worship and have become businesses. I realize that the cost of maintaining them must be mind-boggling and I fully understand and support putting up a donation box asking visitors to help toward maintaining them. They are truly a national treasure. What does bother me is that several of them have gone to what I consider way too far. Salisbury Cathedral is the worst I have seen for trying to cash in on fund raising.
On entering the Cathedral the first thing you see is a turnstile with a person selling tickets thinly disguised as "donations.” Off to the right is a large gift shop, selling all sorts of what Jenny calls tat. Not just postcards and books on the history of the cathedral but tatty stuff, key chains, refrigerator magnets, tee shirts, carrier bags, etc. Through a door in the back is a full service restaurant! I am not a strongly religious person, but in my own way I am religious and I found all that commerce offensive. As I stood there in the middle of the entryway, looking at the turnstile I had a sudden visual of the scene from Jesus Christ Superstar where Jesus throws all the moneychangers out of the temple.
OK, that's my rant. I just needed to vent. I exempt Exeter and Wells Cathedrals from that rant. While both of them had small shops where you could buy postcards and books telling the history of the church, they didn't sell tat, burgers and chips or have turnstiles.
Sunday, October 21, 2001
Jersey Island, Autumn 2001
I will have to qualify my earlier statements that this family does not to mornings well, to they do not do mornings well unless they have too. We rolled out of bed at 3:30 am and by 4:18 am were pulling out of the drive in the pouring rain, headed to Weymouth. We arrived at 6:30 am and met up with Gordon and Christine, long time friends of Jenny and Bob's.
One of the truly wonderful thing about visiting and traveling with Bob and Jenny is that while I never know where I'm going to end up next or by what method of transportation I will arrive there I know that wherever we do, I'm going to love it.
In 1995 it was the Orkney's via a small dirty ferry, in 1997 it was the Scilly Isles via helicopter and this time it was Jersey via ferry. Not just any old ferry but "One of the worlds most advanced wave-piercing catamarans that cruise at speeds of up to 41 knots."
Ferry Interior |
We arrived about 11 am and eventually, after many wrong turns and much hilarity found our hotel, L'Emerald.
Jersey is the largest of the Channel Islands and gives its name to a type of pullover and to a breed of light brown dairy cattle that originated on the island. The capital of the island is St. Helier. According to the tourist information "Jersey is loyal to Britain, it is a Crown dependency and not part of the United Kingdom. The Island, which is located in the English Channel is about 15 miles from the French coast and 90 miles south of England, is small about 10 miles by five miles and has a population of about 85,000. It's a major international offshore finance centre holding deposits worth billions" and I've been told that unless you were born on Jersey you are not allowed to buy property there unless you can verify that you are worth at least a million pounds. That's to keep the riff-raff out I guess, but it would hardly keep out the big time criminals who, I would think, are probably the richest of anyone. Oh well, that's not my concern.
![]() |
Hotel L'Emerald |
As soon as I walked into the lobby of the hotel my imagination went off on a tangent. It was the kind of a place where you would not be the least bit surprised to see Hercule Poirot in the dining room having breakfast or some Nazi officer strutting in through the front door. It was circa 1910 (or earlier) My room was up 20 stairs, along a corridor, through a door, down five stairs, around the bend, up three more stairs and Voila! I had arrived in room six. The room was small, the carpet was shabby and non-too clean and the bathtub had a rust stain. But aside from that, the rest of the room except for the carpet was spotlessly clean. The bed was very, very comfortable and the bathtub was larger than my cabin on the QE2. It was so big I could stretch out and float in it and hot water gushed from the spigot. I loved this hotel. The place had character. Much nicer to my mind than a cookie cutter Embassy Suites or it's ilk that until you go outside you could be any place in the world they are so much alike. There was absolutely no doubt about that hotel. It was BRITISH!
After dumping our stuff in a heap in the middle of the room we set out to explore St. Helier. We walked all around the shopping area down near the waterfront. You would think you were in France if you went by the names of the stores and shops. Because Jersey enjoys duty free status it's a veritable shopping Mecca.
We found the most wonderful indoor market. It was sort of an up market market. The market covered about half a city block and was crammed with all kinds of produce, meets, bakery goods and because Jersey's climate is very mild year round, fruits, vegetables, flowers, and of course dairy products are the major industries on the island, aside from sheltering money that is.
Finally we all started feeling the effects of our very early start that morning and with some difficulty because we got lost again found our way back to the hotel for a shower, or in my case, long deep bath and a nap. Jenny consulted the tourist information booklet that we had picked up and did a very unscientific eeny, meeny, miney moe and managed to find what the taxi driver told us was the best food on the Island. I think he was probably right. Terrific dinner. I had the lamb.

After leaving the museums we circumnavigated the island, stopping at scenic overlooks and stopping and walking along the beaches. We had a terrific pizza for lunch and the Pizza Express and had an ice cream cone for dinner. I took sixty-seven pictures and bought a bunch of post cards.
The ferry left at 9 pm, 25 minutes late but managed to make up most of the time on the journey back. We must have really been zipping along. I dozed most of the way back. We arrived back in Bristol about 2 am I think. </P>
Labels:
Autumn 2001
Location:
Channel Islands, JE2 3LD, Jersey
Saturday, October 13, 2001
Wells
![]() |
The Cathedral at Wells |
After getting all our mundane Saturday morning chores done, the three of us set off for Wells. Wells gets its name from the many springs in the area, which in the Middle Ages, were thought to have curative powers. The town was originally a Roman settlement but only became important under the Saxons when King Ine of Wessex founded a minster church here in AD 704.
I can't imagine a lovelier, more historic setting for a market than at Wells. For 800 years the market has stood on almost the same site in the ancient market place, overlooked by the splendour of the ancient cathedral. Wells holds twice weekly markets in the market place (Saturday's and Wednesdays). You can buy a wide range of goods from clothes and jewellery to organic vegetables, plants and olives.
It was in the Wells market place in 1695, that the quaker, William Penn the founder of Pennsylvania preached to a huge crowd. He was arrested for unlawful assembly, only to return some weeks later to continue his crusade.
After a very nice lunch at an Italian Bistro type cafe called Ricardo's, seated outside on the sidewalk and being entertained by a pan piper who was playing from a doorway across the street, we briefly joined the shoppers.
Jenny, Bob and Emily |
The cathedral was just awesome. It is, in my opinion the most beautiful cathedral in Britain and one of it's best kept secrets. The structure as it stands today was started in 1180 by Bishop Reginald de Bolun who pulled down the old Cathedral (circa 705!) and began building the current one. He was only responsible for the transepts, parts of the choir and nave and the north porch. His successors completed the project which took 250 years. Before 705 A shrine of some sort existed here long before Christianity came. Over the years it has been built up, torn down, and partially blown up (1552 during the Reformation). It has survived throughout the years dignity intact. As soon as you walk inside you know you are in a place of worship. It is one of the few cathedrals that has resisted being comercialized and turned into a tourist attraction like Salisbury.
The Cathedral Garden |
The cathedral clock that has chimed every quarter hour without fail for the last 650 |
Outside and to the right was the ruins of the old Bishops Palace which are still ringed by a real, honest to goodness moat, complete with swans.
After we exhausted ourselves drinking in all the splendor we had a brief cup of tea. Under one of the archway's leading into the cathedral there is a sign that read "poor arch". Since the building of the cathedral this is a spot has been set aside for beggars. A Busker (street performer) was playing his
guitar and singing much to everyone's dismay. He was so awful it's impossible to describe. We quickly drank our tea and moved on.
All of these pictures were taken by myself in the summer of 2003
All of these pictures were taken by myself in the summer of 2003
Thursday, October 4, 2001
The North of Scotland, Autumn 2001
On Tuesday night Nicky and I went to Cardross to Rhona and Iaine's house for dinner. I have known Rhona since she was a little bitty girl as she and Nicky have been close friends since 2nd grade. Nicky has known Iaine the same length of time but he was a year behind her and Rhona in school.
Cardross is a lovely little village that has apparently been a settlement on the banks of the Clyde since the beginning of time. It is believed that Robert the Bruce died here from leprosy in 1329. The picture is of Kirkton Chapel, a 12th century chapel which is one of the oldest religious sites in the area. The chapel is dedicated to St Mathew who is said to have lived before the time of St Columba. The simple much restored chapel was rebuilt in 1467 and was used as a school after the Reformation until the mid 19th century. It then fell into decay but was restored by the Roman Catholic Church and rededicated in 1955. While restoration work was being done part of a standing stone bearing an inscribed cross was unearthed. This has been attributed to the earliest Christian period. The stone has been re-erected in the vestibule of the chapel. Some ancient tombstones can still be seen in the ground.
![]() |
Cardross |
On Wednesday morning Nicky and I loaded up and headed out for "The North.” That's what the signs on the Motor Way coming to Scotland say. Just "The North." I love it. No messing around with fancy highway signs, just straight and to the point. We didn't get a very early start as this branch of the family doesn't do mornings all that well, but by 11 a.m. we were finally on the road.
Glen Coe |
Nicky Loch Ness |

![]() |
Inverness |
The next morning we did a quick wander around Inverness, checked out the Victorian Market and this time headed toward "The South" along Loch Ness. It was a glorious morning but the sun was so bright it almost blinded me. Nicky says that it's because this far north the sun is so low that it aims its self right into your eyes. I'll buy that I guess.
Fort William |
The Drover's Inn |
We arrived back in Dumbarton tired by happy and the odometer on Nicky's car said that we had traveled 401 miles.
Tomorrow I am going into Edinburgh with Joanne. Nicky is going to go around a pick up the kids from school so that Joanne and I can have a one-on-one day. We are going to take the train from here as parking in Edinburgh is a nightmare. Then the next day we are all going into Glasgow to the Barrows, the huge flea market. I need to by a bigger suitcase!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)